Installing countertop gas burners




















Wolf recommends installation of gas burner products so the surface burner grate is above the level of the countertop. Reducing the overall height of the product so the top of the grate sits flush with the countertop can lead to the following:.

Refer to the Wolf Design Guide for design specifications. Need further assistance? Contact Customer Care at Whether you're shopping for appliances or have questions about those you already own, we've got the resources you need. Talk directly to a customer care expert at the Sub-Zero, Wolf, and Cove service center, or connect with an appliance consultant at an official showroom near you.

Get quick answers online, or reach a certified service provider or installer. And much more. First try pushing the knob inwards towards the stove. As a child safety feature, newer stove and cooktop control knobs lock in the "off" position unless pushed in before turning. If other knobs work properly on your stove but this one does not, I'd turn off power and fuel to the stove, then try removing the knob assembly for a closer inspection.

You may need to replace it but sometimes we find spilled food, especially sticky food, has fallen into the mechanism and needs removal, perhaps by soaking in a de-greaser or soap solution overnight.

Dec 13, Anonymous said: I have a sears gas stove. The only problem is the ignitor does not operate, no click sound, when the front burner handle is turned to lite. However, the ignitor does operate when the rear burner handle is turned to light; the familiar click sound is heard. The ignitor is the same one for the right side front and back burners. I looked at the electrical connection and it is not loose or have a signs of a short.

If your unit has power but there is no click and no spark at the igniters I suspect the control module has failed. Try the search box just below, or if you prefer, post a question or comment in the Comments box below and we will respond promptly. Note: appearance of your Comment below may be delayed: if your comment contains an image, web link, or text that looks to the software as if it might be a web link, your posting will appear after it has been approved by a moderator.

Apologies for the delay. Just ask us! Search the InspectApedia website. Comment Form is loading comments We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website. The article also illustrates how to clear obstructions that get in the way of fitting the cooktop into the countertop. Watch out : before even starting a gas-cooktop installation, confirm that the new gas appliance has been properly set-up for the type of gas fuel to be used. The photo at left shows the red sticker indicating that this gas cooktop has been converted for use with propane - LP gas.

Never connect an appliance set up for natural gas to an LP gas supply or vice versa. The appliance will not work properly and it will be unsafe. Watch out : Most manufacturers require that installation and fuel conversions shall be performed by a trained and qualified service technician and local building regulations may require gas appliance installation by a licensed professional.

Here we show the outdoor gas shut-off valve for the gas cooktop in its OFF position - the red handle is at right angles to the gas piping direction.

Watch out : it would be smart to locate not only the local shut-off valves at the gas appliance but also the main gas shut-off valve for the building. Should there be a leak or other problem at the local gas supply shut-off valve s you will be glad that you also shut down the gas supply at the building main. Watch out : be sure that the gas supply has been turned off before beginning this step.

At above left is the fifteen-year-old Jennair glass cooktop that is being replaced in this procedure. You'll need a pair of wrenches that fit the flexible gas line and the brass adapter that has been screwed to the cooktop's gas pipe nipple: turn these wrenches in opposite directions to loosen the gas line and remove it from the cooktop.

You will need a measuring tape and should have already used it to make triple sure that the new gas cook top will fit into the countertop opening. Measure the countertop opening length and width and the depth between the countertop surface and any obstructions below such as a built-in oven or other piping or cabinet components.

Watch out : After you have removed the old gas cooktop if one is installed test-fit the new one in the opening before proceeding to hook up gas piping or electrical wiring.

At above left we are removing old grease and silicone sealant that had marked the edges of the old cook-top that was removed. At above right you can see the flexible gas piping and the black top of the built-in oven installed below this cook top. The presence of the built-in oven means that we will have to work carefully in locating and routing the gas connections and regulator and wiring as space is limited.

If you don't do this, including checking for gas piping and electrical wiring clearances before hooking things up you'll be sorry. I told you so! The countertop opening through the granite countertop was properly sized to accept the Bosch gas cooktop, but still the unit did not fit down into the opening!

The photo at above left shows our new cook top resting on something - a ledge of plywood that extends into the opening below the countertop.

What the heck? The cut-out in the granite counter top was big enough but as you can see in the two photos below, a ledge of plywood from a cabinet side and a piece of plastic cabinet bracket extend into the space wanted by the body of the new gas cooktop. Adjust or remove any gas cooktop clearance obstructions in the countertop opening if needed. Here is where the professionals earn their big bucks.

My mom would maybe have sent the whole cooktop back and waited two years for the production of a custom unit to fit this funny opening. There is just no nice neat way to run a power saw in this opening to cut away the intruding material. At above left we mark the depth of material to be removed and draw a straight cut line. At above right the hammer and chisel get to work.

The drop cloth is both to help protect the top of the built-in oven below and chiefly to avoid dropping a lot of wood chips down into an opening where I'd rather not leave fire-kindling. Having made a chiseled horizontal cut on our cut line it's easy to slice away a couple of plies of the plywood cabinet side that intruded into the cooktop's space.

As with most kitchens, the cabinets are assembled from several cases screwed together so each partition wall between cases is actually two thicknesses of plywood in dimension. At above right we're finishing off a few chips of plywood and at below left, removing the last few intruders into the cooktop's below-counter space.

I wanted to remove enough material to have working space to align the cook top precisely as desired on the countertop near the end of the installation process, and I didn't want any wood in direct contact with the cooktop's body. At above right you can see the cleaned-up space; we took care to vacuum up any sawdust and wood chips as well as to retrieve a roll of electrical tape someone had dropped into the opening behind the built-in oven years before. You probably want to do this before hooking up the gas piping as the electrical wire and plug are simply plugged into a suitable grounded electrical receptacle typically below the countertop and located there for this purpose.

The power cord should be routed where it will not rub on any sharp edges nor obstruct piping nor obstruct the final lowering of the cooktop into its countertop opening. Watch out : most likely the manufacturer of your gas cooktop will specify that the electrical cord must be connected to a properly-wired and grounded electrical receptacle.

Do not modify the cord and no-cheating on the grounding connections.



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